Who are these swaying, hat waving people? And why are they standing in a river, surrounded by mounted horsemen, chanting their song and rhythmically shaking their hats at a flower-laden oxen-drawn silver carriage?
Why, I thought you'd never ask...
You see, I am there in the river amongst them, my brothers and sisters, members of the Seville-based hermandad with whom every year, seven weeks after Easter, I do a ritual, centuries-old pilgrimage to a small village in southern Spain, El Rocío, home to the sanctuary of La Virgen del Rocío, literally, our Lady of the Dew.
Over three days, hundreds of us in this particular brotherhood trek the 50 miles from Sevilla to El Rocío, to join tens of thousands of other pilgrims at the shrine. The walk is a colorful and festive affair, with much music and pageantry, long streams of walking pilgrims, coaches, horses, carriages and carts.
There is sometimes rain, but more often than not searing heat and choking clouds of dust ...
We hike by and through endless stretches of centuries-old olive groves...
and fields of expectant sunflowers ...
There is much singing, but I generally walk in silence, happy to hear the songs of other pilgrims who now call me hermano ...
Young and old ...
At sunset, hats come off as the rosary prayers are murmured and sung ...
(those who know my blog from the 'Roman Pantheon' days may be able to pick me out here)
We sleep on the ground, under the stars and awake to cool mornings to travel trails graced by the spring flowering of Andalusia ...
For me the highlight is crossing the river, at the ford called El Quema, scene of the singing and ritual baptisms of new pilgrims ...
For others it is the procession of the Virgen del Rocío, the religious acts and several days of merriment in the houses at the village...
A photo of me (right), next to Carlos, the dear friend who introduced me to everything I have discovered on those trails, standing in front of the shop in Sevilla where we bought our sombreros rocieros.
For other hats from Theme Thursday participants click here.
I can see why you would be taken with this festival. I loved the hat waving in the video and the singing, it was so clear you could hear the tapping. For you it was your friend introducing you to the "Sombreros" For me it would be getting dressed up with wearing a colorful dress like the other ladies-- How deep is the river, pray tell?" The wagons are a cross between crossing the American prairie and a Gyspy -- caravan love them.
ReplyDeleteDelightful trek with a happy ending,
Joanny
Hi, Joanny. The river this year will be very deep I assume, as this has been the rainiest winter I have seen in Spain in my 25 years here. Yes, the shape of the wagons remind me of those used to traverse the American west.
ReplyDeleteHopefully, I will have interesting tales to tell of these walks.
What a wonderful tradition! I very much enjoyed reading about it, especially with all of your great and colorful pictures. I especially like it because it seems like the antithesis of cyber communication, short attention spans, and being disconnected from our fellow human beings. There's something so warm and wonderful, and festive about this.
ReplyDeleteHi, Christine. Nice to see you here on the blog. The few days I spend each year in Sevilla and on the trail are very special in ways you mention. A total break from the daily myopia of my workaday world. It combines the festive and the sorrowful, the reverent and the profane in a very intense warm mix.
ReplyDeleteThis is amazing. I am always a bit envious of the marvelous traditions of other countries. America is such a melting pot, that we don't have that many of our own customs.
ReplyDeleteYour sombreros rocieros look surprisingly similar to the hats worn by Amish men in northeastern Ohio!
(I think you look very much like your handsome father, Lorenzo!)
willow, you're always the kind one. The absence of such traditions in the States makes for a clear contrast with what happens in Europe and so many other parts of the world. But don't think that this particular pilgrimage enjoys a good reputation with most Spaniards. For many, especially outside of Andalusia, it is synonymous with a backward looking, "folkloric" element of Spanish culture and often associated with a histrionic religious zealotry (folklorico is a pejorative term in Spain!-- very sad when considering that the word folklore comes from the German for the story of the people).
ReplyDeleteI believe that is a sadly misguided view. The friend who took me under his wing on this adventure originally told me and our circle of friends, that he thought I would take to pilgrimage, because "you don't have these traditions in America, so you know how to appreciate them".
What amazing photos and what a remarkable pilgrimage. I love the tradition here--and those hats! I'm glad to see you got a photo of yourself, Lorenzo! I agree with Willow--you DO resemble your dad in the photo you shared with us. I am going to lament that we don't wear hats more than we do here these days. How long does this pilgrimage take? I'll bet there's quite a while for people to form some bonds here...thanks for sharing this!
ReplyDeleteA Brush with Color: Yes, bonding is what this is all about. The best part for me is the actual walking with the hermandad, more than what happens goes on at the village once we all get there. Our particular group takes three days; it all depends on when they begin and what route is taken. I know of some brotherhoods, from Córdoba, for instance, that take 10 days. Others that are closer by are there in a day or two.
ReplyDeleteThe ones from Jerez have to force the river on large wooden platforms, thousands of horses and all — an amazing sight.
Amy: Thanks for your interest. I have hundreds of photos from these pilgrimages (that's not a threat, I'll try to be selective) ...
ReplyDeleteoh i so loved reading (and seeing) about this incredibly tradition and ritual. you really captured the sense of sacredness, joy, color, and community.
ReplyDeleteespecially enjoyed the snap of you and carlos.
as you dust off your sombreros rocieros for this year's pilgrimage I wish you the fair weather and comfortable shoes!
namaste!
Thanks for the good wishes Kimy. We are all on a pilgrimage of sorts I imagine. And I bow to you, as well (namaste!)
ReplyDeleteAnd to all blog friends: I will be on the move for a couple of days so I may be slow to read and respond to comments.
Wow--what a fabulous tradition--it must be a true break from everything.
ReplyDeleteI'm very surprised folklorico is often pejorative : (
Wow--what a fabulous tradition--it must be a true break from everything.
ReplyDeleteI'm very surprised folklorico is often pejorative : (
Oh yes - such a splendid post, Lorenzo! I loved it. Backward-looking? No, no, no... What a wonderful tradition. Some great photos too.
ReplyDeleteWord verification (and I kid you not): hesse
What a beautiful post! Thank you for sharing this. I just love the hats. What a wonderful, colourful procession!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful post, wonderful pictures and a lovely feel of Andalusia. I'm glad to have found your blog. It feels special, poetic and gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteOh, this is beautiful, the ritual, the togetherness, the dusty trek, and children included.
ReplyDeleteIt reminds me of the time I lived in Uruguay. They had a similar celebration, but of La Virgin del Mar (or something of the sort, it's been so many years...I forget all the details). They would parade from Buceo (as beach front in Montevideo) through the streets. We would stop in our tracks and watch them walk by. It was something spectacular.
PS: I didn't realize you lived in Madrid. I've always wanted to travel to Spain.
What a wonderful ritual that I'd never heard of. You've given me further inspiration and intention to return to Spain after having not been there in three years. As if I needed another reason to go!
ReplyDeletewhat an amazing adventure you have taken us on...thanks for sharing it with us...
ReplyDeleteTerresa: I'll have to do some google and youtube "research" to get images of the Uruguay celebration you mention. Sounds beautiful.
ReplyDeleteIf you do make it over to Spain and Madrid, let me know ahead of time. I'd love to see you here.
Ladrón de Basura: I will try to pile up more reasons for a return trip to Spain. Definitely let me know if you come back to Spain. It would be great to meet in person and I love showing people around in Madrid.
ReplyDeleteArt Travels: After your stint in Mexico, with the Spanish you learn you can enjoy a visit to Spain.
ReplyDeleteSolitary Walker: That is pretty wild about hesse being the word verification for your comment. The truth is that there are so many strange and even eerie coincidences with the words use for these things that I think a book (or blog) could be devoted to them.
ReplyDeleteTina: Welcome and thanks for the kind words on the blog. I have enjoyed visiting your The Clean White Page blog. Nice to connected...
ReplyDeleteThanks, Margaret. I'll be sure to post more hat photos for you.
ReplyDeleteBrian: adventure is just the right word for it!
ReplyDeletelooks incredibly fun, incredibly fun.
ReplyDeleteI love these photos! What a beautiful, colorful time.
ReplyDeleteI'm going to assume your deep in festival mode now.
ReplyDeleteHope it proves as glorious as these photos.
Looking forward to what you share from this experience.